Elaine Trigiani
experience Italy
Puglia:
Tradition, Ritual & Sacred Spaces
2026 dates TBD
Make a late summer visit to Puglia, the heel of Italy's boot. With a group of 10 - 12 travelers we’ll make day trips from a base in a typical masseria / farmhouse in the area between Bari and Brindisi exploring from Bari down into the Salento, the tip of the heel of the boot.
Experience life in the small villages of the interior and along the Adriatic sea, taste with artisan producers of Puglia’s food staples, visit the ponderous Norman cathedrals and ancient sites. Barivecchia (the original historic center of Bari) is the original mixed use concept: the Norman cathedral dedicated to the revered San Nicola shares the narrow lanes with garage fry shops, old fashioned bakeries, women making orecchiette and kids zipping by on their scooters. In the Valle d’Itria the countryside is animated with trulli, the characteristic domed stone farmhouses and an agricultural community of producers of wine, cheese, salame and spectacular olive oil. The Salento is noted for its centuries-old olive groves, Baroque architecture and a heartfelt sense of tradition that infiltrates every facet of life from music to feast days to the local pastry shop.
Pugliese recipes reflect the influence of their particular heritage, the farming community and their proximity to the sea; we'll try them all in humble trattorie, the back room of a butcher shop and in more elegant, internationally known restaurants.
itinerary
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day 1 arrival
Late afternoon first group meeting in Bari to explore the historic center Barivecchia. The warren of little lanes hides, surprisingly, the ponderous Norman cathedral dedicated to San Nicola, fry shops and one of the best bakeries in the city for iconic foccaccia barese. Transfer to our masseria, orientation cocktails and group supper.
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day 2 Valle d'Itria, capocollo and wine
Out and about exploring the villages of the Valle d’Itria we’ll visit a salumificio with production of the justly famous capocollo di Martina Franca aged with the help of what they have to hand: wine and almond shells. Lunch at a fornello in Cisternino with time to explore the charming historical center. Afternoon visit to a natural winemaker who works with the region’s autochthonous grapes. Group supper at the masseria.
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day 3 Taranto, ceramics and olive oil
In Grottaglie the millennial ceramic tradition is practiced in all its forms, meet the potters who make contemporary decorative pieces and kitchen ware with a full understanding of the rich past of their craft. In the city of Taranto, founded by the Greeks in 8th century BC and sited as they say "on two seas," explore on your own, eat the freshest of fresh mussels for lunch and spend time with an archaeologist who can unravel the mystery of the ancient remains. Visit with a producer of super high quality extra virgin olive oil to learn about how it’s made and how to recognize the perfumes and flavors of high quality olive oils. Group supper in the garden at our masseria or evening on your own in Monopoli.
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day 4 the Salento
In the Salento we'll explore the villages of what is known as Grecìa Salentina, a remote area where they still speak a dialect that's a direct descendant of ancient Greek, with pastry tasting, artisan visit and country lunch. Free time in the the city of Lecce with its particular brand of baroque architecture .. exuberant architectonic detail carved from the warm colored local tufa, free time to explore and have an aperitivo or a caffè leccese, cold espresso with a splash of almond milk. Group buffet supper at our masseria.
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day 5 the Alto Salento, wheat and Ostuni
at San Vito dei Normanni in the upper Salento (or lower Itria valley) meet a series of young San Vitesi who chose to remain in their hometown and participate in (revitalize) the local economy. Our visits are loosely based on the production of and use of wheat, meet and taste with farmers, bakers and two brothers who who opened a restaurant in their grandmother’s house in order to exalt her recipes. Afternoon in Ostuni with its imposing Norman cathedral and charming, whitewashed historic center. Group supper at the masseria or evening on your own in Polignano a Mare.
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day 6 cheese, kitchen experience, boat ride and supper seaside
jJust to the south of Bari at Mola di Bari our host Rita welcomes us into her family masseria for a cheese making session and a cooking lesson and lunch of Barese classics. Free time at the masseria in the afternoon. Boat ride along the coast to see Polignano a Mare from the sea and take a dip in the clear waters of the Adriatic at sunset. Relaxed farewell group supper on a seaside veranda.
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day 7 departure
Transfers to Bari and Brindisi.
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Please note that this is an initial itinerary to provide a template of what to expect.
The people and places that we will be visiting are not typical tourist destinations
so plans may be modified at the last minute. We will craft the final itinerary
to provide the experience as described above.
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details
This trip is run together with Lorenzo Girolami who you know from our online classes. With a group of 10 - 12 travelers we’ll stay at a simply, yet beautifully restored masseria / humble farmhouse in the area between Bari and Brindisi. We have private vans and drivers for all ground transportation.
Your activity level should allow you to walk for 2 - 4 miles per day including up and down steps, on uneven cobblestone streets and through vineyards and olive groves that are planted on hills and terraces.
Request the guest registration document for all information including cost, payment terms, cancellation policy, etc.
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