Ossobuco di Piero .. Piero's Braised Veal Shanks
Cannoli di Ricotta

serves 4


4 veal shanks about 5-6 inches in diameter, less than 1 inch thick)

odori = 1 carrot, 1 small onion, 1 stalk of celery, handful of parsley 

meat broth

extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper


Finely chop the odori and put them in the bottom of a casserole with abundant olive oil, place the meat on top add salt and pepper and set the flame to medium. Add a ladle of warm broth and cover. When the broth begins to bubble, flip the meat, lower the flame and cover. Check periodically to turn the meat and make sure the pan doesn't dry out (add more broth if necessary). Let the meat cook for about 3 hours until it's falling-apart tender and a rich, dark sauce has formed in the bottom of the pan.

Sunday lunch recipe of  the

wise and hearty Piero di Sanino

(Pietro Dogolini), ready for

anyone who stops by on their way

down or up the mountain.

Pesto alla Trapanese .. Pesto from Trapani

serves 4


big handful of basil leaves

4 cloves garlic

1.5 oz (40 g) peeled almonds

sale grosso, big salt or coarse salt

4 mature tomatoes

      or the equivalent in cherry tomatoes

about 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

3/4 lb of long pasta


If you want to remove the skins from the tomatoes you can pierce the skin with a knife and drop them into boiling water for a minute or until you can easily peel away the skins. Chop the tomatoes into pieces discarding the seeds.

Peel the cloves of garlic and chop each into 3 or 4 big pieces.

Roughly chop the almonds.

In a mortar and pestle crush the garlic and basil with big salt. Add the almonds and reduce them to small pieces, it should be a  chunky mixture.

Add the tomatoes and crush them into the garlic almond paste just enough to make a thick mixture that hangs together.

Stir in just enough olive oil to make a kind of sauce.

Boil the pasta (usually the long, twirly busiati) in salted water until it is al dente reserving some of the pasta cooking water.

Dress the pasta in a serving bowl tossing it with the pesto and adding some of the pasta cooking water to help the sauce coat the pasta.


Using the mortar and pestle brings out the essential oils of all the ingredients exalting the flavors and also making a creamy consistency. Although the effect is a bit different you could use a food processor or an immersion blender but be careful to not over process, the sauce should be chunky.


or coppatedde for a simple country version 


Cannoli are called cannoli when their shells are formed by wrapping the dough around a piece of canna (these days a metal tool has replaced the typical piece of cane or bamboo) and then frying them to make a tube-like shell. In the Sicilian countryside Aunt Francesca makes an alternate sandwich version called coppadtedde.

for the pastry shells 

1 cup flour 

2 T sugar

2 T extra virgin olive oil 

2 T Marsala or white wine

1 T strong coffee

1 egg yolk 


Mix the liquids with the sugar and then stir in the flour. Mix well, knead well to form a ball adding flour if the dough is too sticky, adding Marsala if the dough is too dry. It should be the consistency more or less of pasta dough. Roll through a pasta machine or use a rolling pin, folding and turning several times, to make thin sheets of dough (about 1/8 inch thick, not transparent) and prick with a fork. 


For the tube shells, cut the dough into 10cm squares and wrap around the tube fixing the overlap with an egg wash, fry in hot oil (170-180C / 325-350F) until they are a dark golden color, drain on paper towels.


For the coppatedde use a glass or biscuit cutter to cut the dough into circles about 3 inches in diameter, fry in hot olive oil until dark and golden, drain on paper towels.


for the filling

1 lb ricotta

up to 1/2 lb sugar or to taste (or to taste)

flavoring options: cinnamon to taste, or lemon zest if you prefer (lots of it says aunt Francesca who gave me this recipe), finely chopped zuccata (that’s the green candied cucuzza squash) or some chopped chocolate although chocolate arrived in Sicily over 400 years after this recipe was invented.

Beat the ricotta with the sugar, or pass the ricotta through a sieve and mix it with sugar, it should be very creamy.  Stir in the lemon zest or other flavoring you choose. 

Most traditional recipes for cannoli filling use zuccata or candied citron, but the lemon peel is the better option if you haven’t made zuccata lately since most store-bought versions of candied fruit taste medicinal; if you can get a good one use it, otherwise I suggest lemon zest or cinnamon. 


for decorating

candied cherries

pistachios chopped finely

powdered sugar


Assemble right before serving otherwise they will get soggy. For cannoli use a sac à poche to fill the pastry tubes, dip the ends in chopped pistachios or decorate with candied fruit, sprinkle with powdered sugar.  For the coppetedde spread the ricotta cream on one side of one of the little pastry cups, top with another pastry cup, roll the edges in finely chopped pistachios and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

pasta alla gricia (aka alla Grisciano)

serves 4-5-6 

depending on your appetite and what else you're serving


150 g (5 - 5.5 oz) guanciale sliced into very thick julienne

cured hog jowl, or use cured pancetta 

60 g (2 - 2.5 oz) grated sheep milk cheeses

salt and freshly crushed black pepper

400 g (14 oz) short format pasta

(paccheri, mezze maniche, calamarata, rigatoni, etc.)


Boil the pasta in salted, boiling water. Cook the sliced guanciale in just enough olive oil that it doesn't stick in the beginning until it forms bit of a crust and the fat is translucent. When the pasta is al dente lift it from the water adding it directly to the hot pan with the guanciale. Stir it together adding a bit of the pasta cooking water if necessary to create a little creamy coating, turn off the heat, stir in abundant grated cheese and freshly crushed black pepper and serve or transfer to a serving bowl immediately.    

thanks to the shepherds

of the Monti Sibilini for

the earthy goodness of their

combination of ancestral flavors 


pasta all'Amatriciana

serves 4-6


200 g (7 oz) guanciale sliced into very thick julienne

cured hog jowl, or use cured pancetta 

swirl of extra virgin olive oil

5-6 small tomatoes, peeled (use a mix of different tomato varieties, canned or fresh in summer)

60 g (2 - 2.5 oz) grated sheep milk cheeses (pecorino romano plus a milder pecorino)

salt and freshly crushed black pepper

400 g (14 oz) thick spaghettone or a short format pasta

(paccheri, mezze maniche, calamarata, rigatoni, etc.)


Boil the pasta in salted, boiling water. Cook the sliced guanciale in just enough olive oil that it doesn't stick in the beginning until it forms bit of a crust and the fat is transluscent. Add the tomatoes to the hot pan squishing them with your hands, there should still be some bits of tomato visible when serving. Stir to cook and let the tomatoes reduce until you have an almost dry  pan. When the pasta is 2 minutes from being done (check the cooking instructions on the package) lift it from the water directly into the pan with the guanciale and tomatoes. Add a ladel of the pasta cooking water to the pan and finish cooking the pasta in the tomato liquid. When the pasta has absorbed the liquid and is al dente turn off the heat, stir in crushed black pepper and enough grated sheep's milk cheese to make it turn a light orangey-pink, serve or transfer to a serving bowl immediately.


pasta all'Amatriciana should be just barely coated with tomato and decidedly not swimming in sauce


Frittella .. Spring Vegetables

serves 4-6


4.5 lbs fava beans (in the pods)

2.2 lbs peas (in the pods)

some asparagus

4 artichokes

2 stalks green garlic, or a few new onions, or a few cloves dried garlic

extra virgin olive oil


fresh ricotta

salt & pepper


Shell all the beans.

Prepare the artichokes by removing all tough exterior parts (remove the outer leaves, cut off the top 1 inch or so, pare the heart/stalk), cut into quarters and remove the choke and chop into medium dice.

Slice the garlic in rough julienne and let it cook a good amount of olive oil. When the garlic is transparent add the vegetables with some salt and pepper and let them cook...


for a pasta topping or side dish:

add a tiny bit of water and let the vegetables cook for about 10 minutes or so, remove from the heat and stir in finely sliced mint. Serve them as is for a side dish or ladel them into a bowl of pasta together with some pasta cooking water and top with a big spoonful of creamy, milky, fresh ricotta.


for a soup: 

to the vegetables add 4 cups of water,

cover and let them simmer for 1 hour or

until the vegetables are wilty. Serve in a bowl

with the broth and top with a poached egg.


for the poached egg:

bring a pot of water to a boil with a teaspoon or so of white wine vinegar, apple cider vinegar or lemon juice. Stir vigorously to make the water swirl, tip an egg into the center of the swirl and let it boil for 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a dishcloth or paper towel to blot it dry before adding it to the soup.

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