In the Po River valley along the ancient Roman via Emilia explore the small cities of Reggio, Modena and Parma and the surrounding hills where ancient foodways resist. Food culture in Emilia revolves around parmigiano reggianocheese, various types of prosciutto, balsamic vinegar, farmer fizzy wines [both red and white] and the boundless creativity of the artisans interpreting the contemporary food scene from a strong base in history and tradition. Following the Po to it's source we pass through Oltrepò Pavese on our way to Langa in Piedmont where it's all about the wine: Barolo and Barbaresco from the famed nebbiolo grape plus a host of lesser-known grape varieties all of which make spectacular, world-class wines. Visit the villages of the UNESCO world heritage site Langhe, Roero and Monferrato, talk with farmers, taste with wine producers, learn about a lot of excellent cheeses, vermouth, truffles and hazelnuts plus the partisan movement that helped determine the outcome of WWII. 

Explore the city of Turin, birthplace of the country of Italy and the new nation's first capital. Spend a few days exploring and winding down on Lake Orta, one of the smallest of the glacial lakes in northern Italy's famed lake region.  

itinerary 

 

day 1  arrival 

The group meets in the afternoon at the Modena train station for transfer to our hotel in the city center. First group meeting in the late afternoon for an orientation cocktail and group supper at an osteria in the city.

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day 2  Modena, tortellini, balsamic vinegar 

Explore the historic center of Modena with its Romanesque Duomo sponsored by none other than Matilda di Canossa, the tenth century powerhouse diplomat. Learn to make what is perhaps the most famous recipe from the region in a tortellini cooking lesson with lunch. Visit to a balsamic vinegar attic to learn about and taste this historic, yet sadly misunderstood, vinegar. In Reggio, birthplace of the Italian tricolor flag, visit the council hall where the flag was first approved and have a super traditional snack in piazza with erbazzone and ciccioli. Evening on your own in Modena.

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day 3   Parma and the hills in the purlieus for castles and prosciutto

Visit a family run prosciutto production to see the entire artisanal process for making Italy's most famous affettato / cured meat. Discover how life was lived in one of the grandest of the castles in the hills of Parma, a remarkably well preserved medieval stronghold turned Renaissance home, and have lunch on a farm [ever more prosciutto!]. Afternoon exploring the historic center of Parma including Roman foundations and Romanesque cathedral. On your own in Parma [we'll give you ideas for shopping and a list of our favorite wine bars]. 

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day 4  parmigiano reggiano and fizzy wines  

In the plain between Reggio and the Apennine mountains participate in the entire process of parmigiano reggiano cheese production. This world famous cheese is made in a restricted zone in the plains around Parma and Reggio, hence the name parmigiano reggiano, dairy visit and vertical tasting. We'll visit a patrician villa with a private collection of outstanding European masterworks. In the village where the tricolor was first flown, seated under the tower from which it was first flown, carefully curated lunch of traditional recipes made with hyper local ingredients. In the same valley, in an enviable position that catches the sea breeze that arrives from the Ligurian Sea, visit with a grape farmer who produces a range of the region's naturally sparkling wines including lambrusco, spergola and malvasia. Evening on your own in Modena.

 

day 5  to Langa passing through Oltrepò Pavese 

The drive to La Morra in Langa is broken up midway with a lunch in Oltrepò Pavese: a family restaurant in an old fashioned villa serves recipes and wines that provide the flavors of this under-the-radar wine producing zone [bonarda and lots of bubbles]. After checking into our boutique hotel we have a group vermouth aperitivo with discussion and tasting. Evening on your own to explore the medieval bastions of La Morra, check out the view from the piazza and the amazing selection of barolo wines at the enoteca of the local consortium [good shopping opportunity and they ship], supper on your own. 

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day 6 Barbaresco & Alba 

A visit to Barbaresco as much for the excellent wines as for the history of this production that almost single handedly saved the countryside of Langa from abandon in the post-war period. Visit to Alba, originally founded by the Romans, later the first partisan republic of Italy and now the urban center that serves the entire area. We'll have a guided tour, a discussion of the partisan activity and free time to make the passeggiata, shop, have a leisurely glass of excellent wine. Evening on your own in Alba. 

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day 7 Barolo 

An entire day dedicated to the wines of Barolo, known as the King of Italian wines, and, rightfully, one of the best known wines on the planet. Visit two producers, have lunch with a vineyard view and visit the ethnographic museum of the winery that helped first shine the spotlights the individual crus of Barolo. Evening on your own in La Morra.

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day 8   Torino and on to Lake Orta

Guided historical walking tour of the city center of Torino: royal seat of the House of Savoy, birthplace of the nation of Italy and location of its first capital. Turin is lively with lots of history, architecture from various periods and elegant, art deco cafès, perfect place to try a bicerin or a vermouth. Casual lunch and then transfer to Lake Orta. Check into our lake-side hotel and supper on your own. 

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day 9  Lake Orta by boat

Explore the Lake Orta by boat with a stop on Isola San Giulio aka the Island of  Silence. Spend the afternoon in Orta San Giulio, relax with a view or take a walk or hike in the hills. Final group supper on a terrazza lake-side.

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day 10  departure 

Transfers to Malpensa for flights or trains.

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Please note that this is an initial itinerary to provide a template of what to expect.

The people and places that we will be visiting are not typical tourist destinations

so plans may be modified at the last minute. We will craft the final itinerary

to provide the experience as described above.

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details

This exclusive visit to Emilia Romagna & Piemonte is for  a group of just 10 - 12 travelers with private vans and drivers for all ground transportation. The group is accompanied by Elaine and Lorenzo Girolami the Florentine cook who you know from our virtual visit series. 

 

Accommodations are in historic buildings located near to the places that we will visit and are walking distance to bars and restaurants: a small hotel in an old palazzo in the center of Modena (no elevator), a charming boutique hotel just outside the bastions of La Morra (no elevator) and a classic italiano hotel right on the shores of Lake Orta (this one has an elevator).

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Your activity level should allow you to walk for 3 - 5 miles per day including up and down steps, on uneven cobblestone streets and through vineyards and olive groves that are planted on hills and terraces.

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Request the guest registration document for all information including cost, payment terms, cancellation policy, etc.​​​​